Piles of materials ready on bare garden ground before mixing a lawn soil mixture: pale washed sand and dark sieved soil, with a hedge, wooden fence and lawn behind in low evening sunlight.

Soil and lawn establishment

Sand, biochar, zeolite and Actino

When to add sand, biochar, zeolite or Actino to lawn soil, and when to leave them out. Compare their roles and find out what to check before buying.

16 min read InteliDome Magazine

Published by InteliDomeUpdated

In this article

Sand changes the mineral base, biochar and zeolite can help with water and nutrients, and Actino adds organic matter. A mycorrhizal product has a different role and its own application rate. First choose according to what the soil lacks; only then work out the quantity.

0.25–1mm
recommended grain size for washed sand
0.5–1mm
grain size of clinoptilolite zeolite
4helpers
Actino, biochar, zeolite and mycorrhiza
Chapter 01

What goes into the soil and what each ingredient does

Fig. 01 On the left, clay with a predominance of sand; the dots are existing soil. There are few amendments, and the dashed line with an arrow shows where water drains down. On the right, sandy soil with more amendments: the droplet remains among them.

This article introduces the individual ingredients and explains when buying them makes sense. First, we need to know what the soil lacks: a hand test helps identify the soil type. For specific proportions and incorporation depths, see the next article, How to mix soil for a lawn. Work out quantities for your area in the soil profile calculator, and follow the practical steps in How to prepare the soil and place the mixture.

Imagine two neighbouring gardens after the same rainfall. In the first, soil sticks to your boots and water takes a long time to drain away. In the second, you can soon walk around comfortably, but after a few dry days the grass is already struggling. Using the same recipe would mean treating two different problems.

Lawn soil amendments: what they address and when to leave them out

MaterialWhat it can help addressWhen it will not solve the problemWhat to check before buying
SandWhat it can help addressIn a suitably designed mixture, it changes the mineral composition and the space available for water and air.When it will not solve the problemIt will not overcome a barrier beneath the new layer; extra sand is unnecessary in sandy soil. A small addition to clay can make the mixture denser.What to check before buyingGrain size, silt and clay content, washing, and whether a small trial confirms that the mixture is suitable.
BiocharWhat it can help addressIt can help retain some water and nutrients, especially in light soil.When it will not solve the problemIt does not replace relieving compaction or drainage. Moistening alone does not replace charging with nutrients.What to check before buyingSuitability for soil, preparation before use and the actual proportion of biochar in a blended product.
ZeoliteWhat it can help addressIt helps retain some nutrients and may support water management.When it will not solve the problemIt will not solve an impermeable subsoil and is not automatically needed in soil that functions well.What to check before buyingComposition, grain size, recommended use and bulk density for converting volume to weight.
ActinoWhat it can help addressIt adds organic matter and nutrients where the soil lacks them.When it will not solve the problemIt does not replace loosening a compacted layer; well-maintained loamy soil may not need an additional application.What to check before buyingThe product instructions, the nutrients supplied by the dose and how to account for them in the overall fertiliser plan.
Mycorrhizal productWhat it can help addressIt can be considered after substantial reconstruction or in a new mixture containing little biologically active soil.When it will not solve the problemIt does not replace a functioning root zone. Drought or sandy soil alone does not establish a need for the product.What to check before buyingSuitability for lawns, the application rate and how to place it in contact with young roots.

Choosing starts with a soil test, not a shopping list. You do not need to use every ingredient; the model recipes that follow explain the proportions, conditions and incorporation depths.

A wooden mixing board on compacted ground: a pile of dark sieved soil on the left and pale sand on the right, with a strip of soil already crossing it. An out-of-focus lawn behind the board in warm evening light.
Fig. 02 Dark sieved soil on the left, pale sand on the right, with a strip of soil already crossing it: two materials waiting to be mixed on the board.

The materials can be the same in both gardens: sand, existing soil, biochar, Actino (formerly Biovin) and zeolite. Their roles and quantities change. In clay soil, we need to make space for air and excess water to move; in poor sandy soil, we need to help retain moisture and nutrients.

Sand and soil: the gaps matter too

Sand seems like the simplest item in the whole order. No complicated name, no promise of a biological miracle. Just grains. Yet choosing the right sand and quantity can determine whether the mixture gains the properties we expect.

Sand is important for soil aeration: in a suitable quantity and grain size, it helps oxygen reach the roots. But we must pay attention to how much we mix in and what soil we add it to. Adding more sand to sandy soil would be a waste of money. Conversely, adding a small amount of sand to clay soil can make the mixture even denser and may actually harm healthy grass growth.

Fig. 03 Unwashed sand on the left and washed sand on the right, with the grains arranged identically; only the material in the gaps differs. The dashed line with a downward arrow marks the drainage path.

In the next article on mixture ratios, we use washed silica sand with grains predominantly around 0.25–⁠1 mm. Each part of this description has a reason: washing reduces unwanted fine particles, quartz provides durable grains, and a suitable grain size helps create conditions for water and air to move.

Why washed? Sand may also contain silt and clay particles. These are much smaller than the sand grains themselves and can fill the gaps between them.

A high proportion of fine particles can reduce the permeability of the resulting mixture and leave less space for air after water drains away. Washing reduces their content. This avoids bringing unnecessary extra clay and silt into the soil along with the sand when their excess is the very problem we need to address.

Why silica? Quartz is a hard mineral that is chemically resistant under normal soil conditions. Its grains do not break down easily and can form a stable mineral framework for the mixture over the long term.

Buying note: Sand sold for concrete is often not explicitly labelled as washed, even though it commonly is: clay and other unwanted fine particles are routinely removed during preparation for use in concrete. So unless sand for concrete is explicitly described as unwashed, it will usually be washed; to be sure, check this with the supplier.

Meanwhile, the existing soil supplies what sand alone lacks. It contains finer particles, organic matter and surfaces that can retain water and some nutrients.

Four helpers together

Hover over or tap a card to discover what each ingredient does and where it comes from.

Close-up of Actino grape compost: small dark brown grape-pomace pellets on an old wooden board in warm side lighting.
ActinoOrganic matter and gradually released nutrients for a good start to the lawn. It helps replenish what poor soil lacks.0–⁠10 cm · 0 or 2.5–⁠10 % by volume
Close-up of biochar: matt black, porous charcoal grains two to eight millimetres across on an old wooden board.
BiocharHelps retain some moisture and nutrients within reach of the roots. Particularly relevant to light soil that dries out quickly after watering.0–⁠10 cm · 2–⁠10 % by volume
Close-up of clinoptilolite zeolite: pale grey-green, angular grains half to one millimetre across on an old wooden board.
ZeoliteClinoptilolite, 0.5–⁠1 mm. Retains potassium and forms of nitrogen that would otherwise leach out, gradually returning them to the roots.0–⁠15 cm · 2–⁠10 % by volume
Close-up of a mycorrhizal product: fine beige carrier grains with small root fragments on an old wooden board.
MycorrhizaFine fungal threads can extend the roots’ reach for nutrients. Targeted support when establishing a lawn in a predominantly new mixture.beneath the seed · follow the stated application rate

Actino: organic nutrition for a good start to the lawn

Establishing a lawn gives us the chance to provide good conditions for the roots from the start. Actino adds organic matter and nutrients that are released gradually into the soil. It makes the most sense where the soil is poor and has not had its organic matter replenished for a long time. Alongside sand and soil, we therefore add a material that soil organisms can continue to work on.

Actino is grape compost made from the pomace left after processing grapes. Controlled decomposition in the presence of air, known as aerobic humification, turns it into a soil amendment. Its origin and production method are described by the manufacturer. While sand changes the arrangement of soil particles, Actino adds organic matter and nutrition. It can be used during soil preparation and later when fertilising the lawn, following the product instructions.

In our examples, we give it the largest share in poor sand that dries out quickly. In heavy soil lacking organic matter, we use a smaller proportion; in a well-maintained loamy garden, we do not add it to the base mixture. Specific rates for each garden are given in the next article on mixture ratios. If the soil lacks organic matter, include Actino in the preparation before sowing, when it can easily be mixed into the future root zone. Account for the nutrients it supplies in the fertiliser plan.

Actino grape-compost pellets scattered over dark garden topsoil, some half incorporated and breaking down into the soil.

Biochar: a store of moisture and nutrients beside the roots

We water, but light soil soon dries out again. This is exactly the kind of garden where biochar is worth considering. Its small pores can retain some water, and its surfaces can help hold some nutrients. Part of this store may therefore remain in the root zone for longer. For a lawn on poor sandy soil, this is a good reason to consider what we mix into the soil when establishing it.

Biochar is made by heating organic material with a limited supply of oxygen. Some of the carbon remains in a solid, porous material containing many small spaces. Once evenly mixed in, it can be thought of as small stores scattered among the soil grains. How well they work depends on the soil, the properties of the particular biochar and the chosen dose.

For straightforward preparation, choose biochar intended for soil, already charged with nutrients and ready to incorporate. Uncharged biochar can initially take up some nutrients from the soil, so prepare it before use, for example with moist compost. Water alone does not replace this charging. The next section explains what to check before buying and how to account for compost contained in the product.

Black porous biochar grains mixed with brown crumbly soil: a contrast between matt black and soil crumbs.

Zeolite: some nutrients can stay a little longer

Zeolite can capture some nutrients, hold them and gradually release them back into the soil, where grass roots can use them. For example, it helps retain potassium and some forms of nitrogen that might otherwise be washed out with water.

Think of it as a small nutrient store. Its capacity is not unlimited and it does not hold all nutrients equally well, but it can keep some nutrition within reach of the roots for longer.

In the next article on mixture ratios, we use clinoptilolite zeolite with a grain size of 0.5–⁠1 mm. The proportion needed differs from one garden to another.

The soil itself helps explain why. Clay particles and organic matter can already retain some nutrients on their surfaces. The technical term for this ability is cation exchange capacity. Poor sandy soil has fewer of these sites, so we give zeolite a larger share in it. For practical work, the implication is straightforward: start with a smaller dose in heavy soil and a larger one in light sand. Zeolite does not, however, replace loosening compacted soil or draining excess water.

Pale grey-green zeolite grains scattered among dark crumbs of garden soil.

Mycorrhiza: more soil within reach of the roots

A young lawn initially has small roots with a limited reach. Mycorrhizal fungi can form a partnership with them, in which their fine threads extend the area available for taking up nutrients. This can let the plant use some of the nutrients that its roots alone could not yet reach. This partnership is where the benefit of mycorrhiza lies.

For lawns, choose a suitable product containing arbuscular mycorrhizal fungi. The fungus helps the plant take up nutrients and receives carbon from it in return. We mainly consider adding a product after substantial reconstruction or when establishing a lawn in a predominantly new mixture containing little biologically active soil. Suitable fungi may already live in established garden soil, so adding a product may not provide the same benefit. The outcome depends on the particular soil, product and conditions for the partnership.

When establishing a lawn in a new mixture, have a suitable product ready before sowing, so that, following the instructions, it can be placed where young roots will encounter it. Mycorrhiza is not applied as a percentage of volume like zeolite: we are adding living fungi, not another share of the mineral mixture. The product’s composition, recommended application rate and correct placement matter, not simply the proportion of sand or clay. This gives the purchase a clear purpose: supporting the partnership in the new root zone.

Chapter 02

What to check before buying biochar

Fig. 04 Follow the arrows: on the left, nutrients move from the surrounding soil into an uncharged grain with empty pores; on the right, they move from a charged grain towards the root.

The simplest option is to buy biochar intended for use in soil, already charged with nutrients and ready to incorporate. Check these two points in the description or with the supplier: that it is intended for soil and that it has already been enriched with nutrients. This enrichment is often called “charging”. Moistening with water alone does not replace it.

The reason is simple: uncharged biochar can initially take nutrients from the surrounding soil rather than enrich it. Think of it as an empty store that is still filling up. It captures some nutrients from the soil, which can temporarily leave fewer available to the grass.

Microorganisms breaking down readily decomposable carbon residues in biochar can also temporarily use some of the available nitrogen. That is why we “charge” biochar before incorporating it into the soil: enrich it with nutrients beforehand, for example by preparing it with moist compost.

Water helps nutrients enter its small pores, and some are retained on its surface. Compost also helps microorganisms colonise the biochar. Clean water alone is not enough, however: it moistens biochar but does not nourish it.

One more question before buying can prevent a mistake in the quantities: how much actual biochar does the delivery contain? The recipes in How to mix soil for a lawn use the volume of biochar, not the entire blend with compost.

Account separately for compost supplied with it or used when charging it at home, and include the nutrients it supplies in the fertiliser plan. For how to account for the ingredients in a blended product, see converting materials into an order.

If you buy uncharged biochar, ask for preparation instructions for that particular product: a suitable nutrient source, ingredient ratio and preparation time. These cannot be determined from the name “biochar” alone. Incorporate it into the soil only after preparing it according to those instructions.

Chapter 03

Mycorrhizal products have their own application rates

Fig. 05 Three soils on the left and an instruction label on the right: every line leads to the same row. The crossed-out upward arrow beside rate A means that sandy soil does not increase the rate; the crossed-out soil type does not determine it.

A separate mycorrhizal product can be considered after substantial reconstruction or when creating a predominantly new mixture containing little biologically active soil. Drought alone does not establish a lack of suitable fungi. Not buying a product does not mean that the soil contains no mycorrhizal fungi either.

The instructions for the particular product and its intended use determine the application rate, not the soil type. If the instructions distinguish between standard establishment and more demanding conditions, choose the appropriate use. Sandy soil alone does not increase the rate; for the same product and use, it can remain the same in clay, loamy and sandy gardens.

The product must come into contact with young roots. For when and where to incorporate it during establishment, see the practical guide to placing mycorrhiza.

We now know the roles of the materials. Choose their volume proportions and distribution by depth in How to mix soil for a lawn. The soil profile calculator converts them into quantities for your own garden, and the mixture preparation guide walks you through the work.

Questions and answers

Frequently asked questions

Charge biochar with nutrients beforehand; choose and apply a mycorrhizal product according to its instructions.

What does “charged” biochar mean, and why avoid buying it uncharged?

Charging means enriching biochar with nutrients beforehand, for example by preparing it with moist compost. Uncharged biochar initially acts as an empty store: it tends to take nutrients from the surrounding soil rather than enrich it, which can temporarily leave fewer available to the grass. Moistening with water alone does not replace charging: it moistens biochar but does not nourish it.

Does the soil type determine the application rate for a mycorrhizal product?

No. The instructions for the particular product and its intended use determine the rate. Sandy soil alone is not a reason to increase it; place the product where the future young roots will grow.

Does every garden need all the amendments?

No. Choose a material according to the property you want to change. Buying it may be unnecessary in soil that functions well. Specific conditions and cases where an ingredient can be left out are described in the model recipes.

Key takeaways

Now you have a foundation to build on.

  • Choose each amendment for a specific soil problem.
  • Biochar should enter the soil charged with nutrients; moistening alone is not enough.
  • The particular mycorrhizal product determines its application rate and placement.

In the next article

You know the materials. What ratios should you use?

Why do clay and sandy gardens need different recipes? Three examples show how much space to give each ingredient and how deep it belongs.

Choose mixture ratios

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